Interflush™ Fitting Instructions. WRAS Approved
1.
Remove cistern lid, remove lever from flush spindle.
2.
Select correct green adaptor to suite spindle. (Fig 1)
3.
Slide adaptor onto spindle with gap facing away from siphon and fold spindle clamp around adaptor. (Fig 2)
4.
Insert long spindle clamp screw but do not fully tighten. (Fig 3)
5.
Replace and secure spindle lever in original position.
6.
Mark centre line along top of siphon cap.
7.
Place green baseplate on the flattest part of the siphon cap with folding clamp arm nearest to you. Locate large central hole over drawn line and mark its position.( Fig 4)
8.
Drill through the siphon cap, where marked, using the 8mm drill bit. The plastic tube on the drill bit prevents drilling too far. Do not remove it.
9.
Select correct white rotor, marked ‘L’ for left-hand flushing cisterns and ‘R’ for right-hand flushing. Insert end of rotor into housing at rear of baseplate, fold clamping arm over and secure with the two screws. Fig 5. Check the return action of the spring lever by flicking the quadrant.
10. Insert the connector line (large teeth end), up from below and through the rotor quadrant and press into the matching recesses. Twist the green swivel catch across to lock down. (Fig 5)
11. Place protruding lip of hole, on underside of baseplate into hole in siphon cap. Position baseplate so the connector line runs in a straight line to the spindle clamp. Slide the spindle clamp so the connector line is as square to it as possible. Then rotate so teeth can engage in matching recesses. Now fully tighten the spindle clamp screw.
12. Holding baseplate in correct alignment, drill through ONE of the small holes into and through the siphon cap, using the 4mm drill bit. (Fig 6)
13. Push a fastener into this hole, just to stop the baseplate moving while drilling (DO NOT TIGHTEN). Drill remaining three holes. Lift baseplate and clear away any debris. Five fasteners are prepared, one is a spare, these work like rawlbolts. Check barbed nut is just finger tight and that sleeve is not splayed out in any way.
14. Replace baseplate, push four fasteners home into the square recesses. If one will not go in, pass the drill through again. Maintaining a downward force on the screwdriver, tighten all four screws evenly, a little at a time, in sequence, until the gasket is reasonably compressed. Do not over-tighten. (Fig 7)
15. Adjust both ends of connector line, to centralise the spring.

Final adjustment:
Adjust the connector line at the spindle clamp end, so that the TIP of the spring lever is just about to touch the green upstanding on the baseplate. Lock down with swivel catch and nip both catch screws up. Clip off excess connector line. Check for correct operation by flushing the toilet. Flushing should continue while handle is held down (spring lever fully bent) and cease immediately when the handle is released or raised (spring lever flat). Fig 8 is a completed installation.
The ‘trailing volume screw’ can now be fitted. Only necessary IF there is a history of blocked drain lines. Screwing in restricts the rate of air entry, which provides the delay in flush termination. This increases the volume of water, which chases the last of the solid waste along the drain line.( Fig 9)
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